How to Make an Illuminated Lazy Susan Hookah Table

Introduction
Ever have a group of friends over and sharing your hookah becomes a real hassle: hoses get tangled, some people can't reach, you find yourself cringing as people stretch the limits of you're hookah's center of gravity? Wish you could just spin the thing around to give your guests that little extra length they need to smoke easily? How about this, did you wish all of that and then think to yourself "dang, that would be cool but having my hookah illuminated at the same time would be the cat's meow!"?


Great! Here's how to turn an ordinary little end table into a lazy susan and a light plate!

This works great for those large-based hookahs or models like the Fumo Tank, Orb, Jar, etc where some of our light kits are just a little more than we would like. This looks great on pretty much any Sahara hookah such as the sub-zero, leaf, bubble, jezebel, arabic, etc.

Hope you find this tutorial helpful and we're working on another one with the bearing suspended in the air (below the table top) to add a ton of stability for those of you with moron roommates or playful cats. One more teaser, the bearing height/depth is adjustable too. ;-) SNEAK PEAK PIC -------->>>>>>
Other How To Articles
  • How to make a Battery-Operated Table
  • How to make an Illuminated Table
  • How to make a Rotary Table
  • How to Illuminate the Fumo Jar
  • Sukit Hookah Carries Fumo Design
  • What Makes Fumo So Great
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Disclaimer
Ok, we all know that guy or girl who thinks they can not only do anything we can but can also do it better and, when they mess it up, blame us for whatever went wrong.  This disclaimer is for them, you, and anyone else reading.... We make no warranties about the safety, cost, potential damage to your hookah, or potential harm to you.  We do not encourage anyone to modify or otherwise tamper with with the original equipment manufacturer's (OEM) designs, materials, or uses.
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Video Instructions
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Parts & Equipment
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Step 1
Remove the table top from the table stand. Be sure to leave the platform attached to the stand as we are working in the space between the platform (pictured left) and the table top itself.
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Step 2
Mark the center point of your table top by drawing cross hairs from both sets of opposite corners. No need to mark the entire table, just an inch or two in the center is all you need.
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Step 3
Using your compass, draw a 4 1/2 inch hole (2 1/4 inches on your compass) which will mark the innner diameter of our 6" bearing. If you're working with a different bearing then mark your circle with the correct diameter.
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Step 4
Attach your bearing to the table top by aligning the inner space with the circle you just drew. Remember to use the pre-drilled holes in the bearing that are both the WIDEST in gage and FURTHEST APART. This will be important when we finish table assembly.
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Step 5
Detach the bearing and set aside. We have now made guide holes that will aid us in final assembly and save us big headaches. Set the bearing aside.
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Step 6
Drill a 2" (two inch) hole in the center of your table top (using your cross hairs from earlier). If you're using a different grommet for your light installation then drill an appropriately sized hole. Once done, remember to check that your grommet fits snugly in the hole you just drilled.
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Step 7
Line the inside of your grommet with your 24 LED strip (in the parts list above) and secure using super glue. Be sure to coil inwardly as much as you can before dropping further inside the grommet. The more bulbs without obstruction the brighter this kit will be. Insert the kit into your 2" hole and set aside for now. You may either 'hard wire' this to your batter or, as I have done here, wire in a female 2.5mm DC plug. See our other "how to" article for more detailed instructions.
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Step 8
Using the same technique as above, mark the center point of your table platform (still attached the the stand).
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Step 9
AGain, mark the appropriate circle diameter for the bearing using your compass.
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Step 10
Attach your bearing using the smaller and closer sets of screw holes. The other set will already be drilled out on the table top.
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Step 11
With the bearing attached align it in a star pattern. Use a Pencil or pen to mark where the hole(s) for the table top are at and then drill a 1/2 inch hole at the mark you made (only 1). This will be our access hole to secure the table top.
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Step 12
Using a heavy duty staple gun, securely attach your excess wiring to the table top. Be sure not to cover any of your drilled holes. Run the wire to where you expect to mount your switched battery and secure it the entire length.
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Step 13
Set the table stand on top of the table top (upside dow). Align your access hole with one of the bearing holes and one of the holes you made earlier. Don't worry if all the holes are aligned, you can align the rest once you have the first one loosely secured. Once all are secured, be sure to tighten them all down.
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Step 14
Place your battery, switch facing out, where it will be easy to access and then mount using a pipe clamp or similar device. We use single screw conduit straps that we bend to fit and line with window seal foam. Staple or secure any additional loose wiring and connect your batter to your light.
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Finished!
You're table should be ready to go..... a few closing thouhgts coming soon.
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